RMS-106 Hi-Zack

The most glaring problem with this model is the face. I looks pinched up and wimpy, Grandma's MS. :P The first picture shows the ugly snout, and also the scratchbuilt monoeye detailed below. The solution was a new snout. I glued the halves of the head together, then sawed off the existing face before figuring out how to build a new one, which forced me not to give up on the problem.

The basic snout shape was simple enough. I built it from plastic sheet and Bondo polyester putty, with a ridged plastic sheet cut to shape for the vents at the front. This was glued to what was left of the head, and faired in with spot putty.

The hard part was recreating the oval shapped extrusion that goes across the simple snout shape. I ended up using 2 different diameter plastic tubes, gluing them together, then filling the space in between with Bondo (using a plastic sheet to create a flat surface). This gave me the oval crossection that I needed. Rather than try to carve the required cutout into this fragile part, I made a resin copy, then carved out the underside so it would fit the snout. I then added cable mounts (cut from plastic tube), and the little bump at the top (plastic sheet and putty).

The kit just comes with a decal for the monoeye. I scratchbuilt a detailed monoeye, using several sizes of plastic tubing, some turrets sliced off of an old SDF-I model, and a Wave H-Eye (back painted with silver).
I also cut out the recessed part in the back of the head and made a part from Bondo with details to match the lineart, but somehow didn't end up with pictures of that.

The whole torso came molded in just two parts (front and back), with no articulation at the waist or skirts (save the side skirts). I chopped up the whole thing so I could add much needed articulation.
After I had seperated the skirts, waist, midsection, and upper torso, I scratchbuilt a new midsection from plastic sheet and Bondo polyester putty. It took quite a bit of work to get the contours right, but I'm happy with the result. This was attached to the upper torso with a large ball joint (adding some limited articulation), and to the waist with a brass tube.

I backed the skirt pieces with plastic sheet, and detailed them to simulate reinforcing braces. I ended up painting the inside of the skirts bright red, which looks really cool, but you can barely see them on the finished model.

After cutting everything up, I ended up with no place to attach the skirts, so I added mounts for them to the waist using plastic sheet smoothed out with Bondo. The skirts were attached with small springs after painting.

Keep reading to check out the mods to the arms on the model.

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