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Arms (contd.)
I wanted a more detailed joint for the shoulder, and hoped for
some more forward/backward movement as well. So I chopped up the
kit supplied block shoulder joint and built a detailed version
using brass tubing, plastic rod, a cut up T shaped polycap, and
a homemade minus mold.. The middle section of the kit part was
discarded, and I used the ends in my final piece. It's difficult
to describe the construction, so I'll just let the pictures below
speak for themselves. By itself the joint moves all over the place,
but the power cables added later ended up severely limiting the
movement. :P
A handy tip, the minus mold was made by filling
the end of a brass tube with CA glue, then filing it smooth and
beveling the edges. I then used a razor saw to cut the minus line
in the center. I pressed this template into sculpey modeling clay,
then made copies using Bondo polyester putty thinned with MEK.
The other minus molds used on this kit were made with a similar
technique.
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Legs
The legs are probably the best part of the kit, they didn't need
a lot of work. But that didn't stop me. ;) The only major problems
were foot articulation and proportions. The foot only had a small
amount of lateral rotation, preventing the feet from sitting flat
with the legs spread in cool poses. And the grey part on top of
the feet was too small as compared to the line art.
Lateral foot movement was pretty easily fixed with
a new joint system made from plastic sheet and some extra polycaps.
I ended up with something like 6 points of artuculation in just
the ankle! This allows the foot to move from side to side when
rotating, giving more clearance for a wider range of motion. It's
also quite solid, and is sturdier than a ball joint would have
been.
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The grey part on top of the foot was simple to enlarge. First
I used styrene sheet to build new crossections, and attached them
to the kit part. I filled them in with Bondo, then sanded the
part smooth.

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I used the "Bondo squish" technique to get the new
part to fit on the foot. First I used a routing bit in my Dremel
to route out a section large enough to accomodate the new part.
Then I filled the routed area with Bondo (backed by styrene sheet
for support), covered the new top piece with mold release (actually
dish soap), and squished it in to the Bondo while it was still
soft.
This left me with a recessed area that fit the new piece perfectly.
Then I just sanded the gooped out putty flush with the surface.
The Bondo did come loose (it doesn't stick to styrene very well),
so I superglued it back into place. The picture below shows a
comparison between the original and new feet.

A little putty to smooth out the mating surface
between the bottom of the foot and the lower dark green parts,
and they were done (I didn't glue the parts together until after
painting, minimizing masking).
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Continued
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