RMS-106 Hi-Zack Page 2
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Arms (contd.)
I wanted a more detailed joint for the shoulder, and hoped for some more forward/backward movement as well. So I chopped up the kit supplied block shoulder joint and built a detailed version using brass tubing, plastic rod, a cut up T shaped polycap, and a homemade minus mold.. The middle section of the kit part was discarded, and I used the ends in my final piece. It's difficult to describe the construction, so I'll just let the pictures below speak for themselves. By itself the joint moves all over the place, but the power cables added later ended up severely limiting the movement. :P

A handy tip, the minus mold was made by filling the end of a brass tube with CA glue, then filing it smooth and beveling the edges. I then used a razor saw to cut the minus line in the center. I pressed this template into sculpey modeling clay, then made copies using Bondo polyester putty thinned with MEK. The other minus molds used on this kit were made with a similar technique.



Legs
The legs are probably the best part of the kit, they didn't need a lot of work. But that didn't stop me. ;) The only major problems were foot articulation and proportions. The foot only had a small amount of lateral rotation, preventing the feet from sitting flat with the legs spread in cool poses. And the grey part on top of the feet was too small as compared to the line art.

Lateral foot movement was pretty easily fixed with a new joint system made from plastic sheet and some extra polycaps. I ended up with something like 6 points of artuculation in just the ankle! This allows the foot to move from side to side when rotating, giving more clearance for a wider range of motion. It's also quite solid, and is sturdier than a ball joint would have been.

The grey part on top of the foot was simple to enlarge. First I used styrene sheet to build new crossections, and attached them to the kit part. I filled them in with Bondo, then sanded the part smooth.

 

 


I used the "Bondo squish" technique to get the new part to fit on the foot. First I used a routing bit in my Dremel to route out a section large enough to accomodate the new part. Then I filled the routed area with Bondo (backed by styrene sheet for support), covered the new top piece with mold release (actually dish soap), and squished it in to the Bondo while it was still soft.

This left me with a recessed area that fit the new piece perfectly. Then I just sanded the gooped out putty flush with the surface. The Bondo did come loose (it doesn't stick to styrene very well), so I superglued it back into place. The picture below shows a comparison between the original and new feet.

A little putty to smooth out the mating surface between the bottom of the foot and the lower dark green parts, and they were done (I didn't glue the parts together until after painting, minimizing masking).

 

 

Continued on next page... ->

 

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